This Brazilian Fish Stew Will Brighten Up a Rainy Galway Day

Brazilian-born chef and food entrepreneur Giselle Makinde, whose new cookbook Samba is published today (and who recently shared her edit of the best places to eat Brazilian food in Galway) is sharing a delicious recipe for Moqueca de peixe com pirão, a traditional Brazilian fish stew with a rich and fascinating history.

"Moqueca is a dish that beautifully expresses the blend of cultures that shaped Brazil," says Giselle. "Its origins trace back to Indigenous peoples, who wrapped fish in leaves – a method known as pokeka, from the Tupi word meaning ‘wrapped’. These fish were often slow-cooked over rustic grills called moquém, which inspired the name ‘moqueca’. When the Portuguese arrived, they brought their tradition of hearty stews (cozidos) with them, which merged with native ingredients and tropical fish. Later, African influences added depth and boldness, introducing dendê oil, coconut milk and chillies, especially in Bahia. Today, moqueca remains one of Brazil’s most cherished recipes, with the handcrafted clay pot as its signature element, no matter the version or region."

"And then there’s pirão, the beloved sidekick," she adds. "A thick, comforting gravy made from fish broth and cassava flour, stirred until smooth and creamy, that rounds out the dish with its earthy texture and deep flavour. Like moqueca, pirão has strong Indigenous roots."

Serves 4

You'll need

1 x 400ml (14fl oz) tin of coconut milk
4 tsp dendê oil (red palm oil)
½ tsp sea salt, plus extra to season
900g (2lb) haddock fillets, skinned
1 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 fresh red chilli, finely chopped
2 medium tomatoes, sliced
½ yellow pepper, sliced
½ green pepper, sliced
½ bunch of fresh coriander, leaves and stems chopped, plus extra leaves to garnish

For the Pirão

1 tsp dendê oil (red palm oil)
¼ red pepper, roughly chopped
1 tomato, roughly chopped
1 small onion, roughly chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
250ml (1 cup) fish stock
50g (⅓ heaped cup) farinha de mandioca (cassava flour) (adjust for desired thickness)

To serve

yellow rice (see the note)

Method

• Put the coconut milk, dendê oil and salt in a blender and blitz for 1 minute, until fully emulsified. Set aside.
• Lightly season the haddock fillets with salt on both sides. Set aside while you prepare the vegetables.
• Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan or deep frying pan (or for a true Brazilian experience, a black clay pot) on a medium heat.
• Add the onion, garlic, chilli and a pinch of salt. Cook for about 2 minutes, until the onion starts to soften.
• Add the sliced tomatoes and peppers in an even layer, then put the seasoned fish fillets on top.
• Pour over the coconut milk mixture – the fish should be partially submerged. The fish will release water, so don’t be tempted to add more liquid.
• Cover the pan with a lid and simmer gently for 10 minutes, until the fish is cooked through but still moist and the vegetables are tender.

Meanwhile, to make the pirão, heat the dendê oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat. Add the red pepper, tomato, onion and garlic and cook for 5–8 minutes, until soft. Add the fish stock and bring to a boil.

Blitz using a hand blender until smooth (be careful since the liquid is hot). Bring back to a simmer, then gradually whisk in the cassava flour until you reach your desired consistency – thicker for a hearty pirão or lighter for a saucier version.

To finish, stir the chopped fresh coriander into the stew, then add extra whole leaves on top to garnish.

Serve hot with the pirão and yellow rice on the side.

Yellow rice

To make yellow rice, just add a pinch of turmeric to the water you cook your rice in.

Samba by Giselle Makinde with photography by Jo Murphy (Blasta Books, €17) is out now.